Huntington Prime (Huntington)

Missy and I explored our neighbor to the west with friends the other night. Huntington Prime is a classic steakhouse located in Huntington’s downtown pretty much across the street from the Keith-Albee.

Our evening started with a drink at the new Jockey Club, an old school bar that is part of the Frederick and is literally across the street from the Keith-Albee. I went for a rye manhattan, which was a bit sweeter than I would have preferred, and Missy chose a cucumber/mint-tini of some sort that she found very refreshing:

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After cocktails, we headed over to Prime where we were ushered to the “penthouse.” The penthouse is the 15th floor of the WV building and has a piano bar and a tremendous view of Huntington and the Ohio River. The menu has changed periodically, but focuses on steaks and chops. We started with a bottle of wine that was 100% cab franc, which I am told is highly-unusual.

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According to our sommilier/waiter, this vintage is close to a private label as it comes from a small French vinyard and exports about 200 cases a year. It was outstanding, though I will refrain from unleashing a chain of annoying and pretentious adjectives to describe the wine.

We began our meal with an artisan cheese plate:

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It was a nice collection of cheeses and fruits. Especially good was the fried brie that seemed to be coated in a panko crust. A tip of the cap to our server who decided the candied pecans were too close to the bread, and offered up a clean plate of bread just for Missy.

We chose four different entrees: Missy and I going more comfort food while our friends went a bit more upscale. I think Missy was the night’s winner when she varied from her usual choice (barely cooked steak) to go with the fried chicken:

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The chicken was outstanding! Boneless chicken breasts in a coating that was initially sweet and then packed a nice peppery punch. It was some of the best fried chicken I have ever tasted. The five cheese mac-n-cheese was gooey and flavorful, but more of a cheese-n-mac than I liked. The kale was fantastic, but that’s not surprising because it was almost one to one matched with bacon.

I chose the 14 hour brisket, which was fork tender and flavorful (if a bit fatty):

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I hve to say, the brisket was extremely tender, all in all a solid selection if you something a little different.  Our friends chose the filet (which was overcooked, but he said was otherwise good) and the crab cakes over a dijon sauce pasta (which we were told was a bit heavy on the mustard, so be warned).

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The pastry chef just left, so the hand-crafted desserts weren’t available. Service was very good and the overall meal was wonderful, though not perfect (a steakhouse shouldn’t overcook a steak, ever). Still, I would happily return (for the chicken). The meal set us back around $50 a person including the bottle of wine, shared appetizer and tip, which is fair for what we ate.  Overcooking a steak at a top quality steakhouse is worrisome, but there are plenty of positives with the meal (especially if you can get a table in the penthouse area).  It’s worth a visit.

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